Scenes from along the way to Dry Tortugas via Key West…..

When we left Tavernier and headed west along the ICW on the inside of the Florida Keys, we spent about a week near the Windley Key Fossil Park in Islamoarada…. See that post here……    https://learntoliveaboard.com/2016/05/a-visit-to-windley-key-fossil-park/

Once we had seen all the sights there, we backtracked slightly because we wanted to see the Indian Key Historic Park.  That park is located on a small island on the ocean side of the Keys near Lower Matecumbe Key.  We moved to the ocean side through Snake Creek and the Bascule Bridge there.

imageAn Unusual house just inside the Snake Creek Bridge…..

an aerial view of Indian Key…..

image(Image courtesy of Google Maps)

Indian Key was settled by the Housman family……

image

In the mid 1800’s Indian Key was settled by Jacob Housman and his family.  They built several houses, a store, a town square and several cisterns for saving fresh water.  The village was later destroyed by an Indian attack and was later recaptured by the U.S. Navy and used as a Naval Base.  Housman had lost everything in the attack and moved to Key West where he operated a salvage vessel. In 1841 he was crushed to death when he fell between the hulls of his salvage ship and a vessel they were in the process of salvaging. His grave on Indian Key is symbolic only, as he is buried near Lignumvitae Key.

 

 

image

A scary looking tree on Indian Key……

After spending the night at Indian Key and having a short tour of the park the next day, we sailed west to the Channel Five entrance at Marathon (aka Boot Key).  We went back to the bay side of the Keys there.  We spent a couple of nights anchored out north of Marathon near Horseshoe Key and later docked at the Sombrero Marina for three nights while awaiting the arrival of my sister, Jo.  We had hoped to spend some time at the Dockside Restaurant which was owned by the “Trop-Rock” musician Eric Stone and his wife. Sadly, they had some issues with their landlord and the bar was permanently closed when we arrived.  We picked up my sister Jo at the Ft. Lauderdale airport and she made the rest of the trip with us to Key West.

Once Jo joined us we left Marathon……

After a night at Looe Key Reef….see that post here …..   https://learntoliveaboard.com/2016/05/spotted-eagle-rays-at-looe-key-reef/

 

image
My sister, Jo, snorkeling at Looe Key Reef

 

We woke to the calmest water I have seen aside from a lake on the calmest day…..these photos don’t do justice to how flat the water was that day……

image
The American Shoal Light
image
Kim playing giant to the American Shoal Light

image

 

We saw two Sea Turtles that day on our way to Key West.  I think my sister might have even shed a tear or two….it was her first time seeing sea turtles in the wild and she has been trying to do that for a long time.  I’m glad I got to be there for that experience.

NEXT TIME…..KEY WEST !!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spotted Eagle Rays At Looe Key Reef

In mid April we arrived in Marathon.  We picked up my sister, Jo, at the Fort Lauderdale airport and she accompanied us for the next few days as we travelled from Marathon to Key West with a stopover at Looe Key Reef.

Looe Key Reef, like many of the reef areas in the Keys has several permanent mooring balls.  (A mooring ball is a floating buoy that is connected to the bottom or a large concrete, or other heavy material, anchor that has been placed on the bottom) boats are permitted to spend the day and/or the night on most of these mooring balls, so we decided to stay at Looe Key. My he eather was perfectly calm and the snorkeling was great.  It’s pretty nice when you can just hang on the swim platform, or near it, and see sharks, Rays, Goliath Grouper, Parrotfish and a large variety of other sea life without snorkeling over a larger area.  It also made a perfect place for a stopover since it is almost exactly halfway between Marathon and KW.  The Stars were amazing that night, the water was as flat as glass all night and the entire next day. The only small issue was….no wind….so we had to motor from Looe Key to Key West but it was well worth the trade off!!!

image
Looe Key in relation to Marathon and Key West

 

image
Looe Key Reef closer satellite image

You can get to Looe Key Reef even if you don’t own a boat.  It is a very popular destination for the local dive and snorkel operations.  We highly recommend it.

image

IMG_0355  <——this is the link to the Spotted Eagle Ray Video…..

 

Lionfish…poisonous …but….who knew they were delicious??

While we were in Tavernier we were fortunate enough  to make some great new friends.  Among these were Jeff and Patti.  They are hilarious and generous to a fault.  They not only let us, but insisted, we use their fishing boat multiple times  while we were there to take our visitors on tours of the local area.  Thanks  guys !!!

We also had a fun weekend excursion with Jeff and Patti.  We drove down to the Sunset Grill at the west end of Marathon for lunch and a dip in their salt water pool.  They had the best hogfish sandwich I’ve had so far!!

When we were headed back we saw some goings on at the docks near Postcard Inn so we stopped in.  A bunch of our other new friends were there for the results of the “Lionfish Derby”.  Here’s a quick explanation of that…..

image

 

It seems Lionfish are very invasive and they can be harvested at any time in any number.

After the derby they bring in volunteers to prepare the Lionfish and teach the attendees how to do so safely.  They also made an awesome Lionfish ceviche and flash fried Lionfish….I may have had seconds …..(and tenths)

image
Here’s Steve cleaning a Lionfish and explaining the process….I don’t recall if the PBR was crucial…
image
The finished process……
image
Patti, Sue, Fran, Molly-gan (inside joke) and Kim at the Lionfish Derby Party (L-R)

Lobster – Palooza……or this guy caught a huge lobster and then THIS happened…

I’m not sure what the lobster season has been like offshore near the reefs but if it’s been anything like it has been on our little part of the bay it must have been great so far. I was hesitant to spend the $25 for the five year license initially but at $12 or $13 per pound (even at the places that buy them straight off of the boats) it paid for itself in about the first day.   The season runs from August to the end of March and there are two “mini-seasons” that are two days each in the summer time.

image
Does that size 11 shoe make my lobster look big ??? Haha

 

 

image
That’s a heavy lobster ….

 

and what happened next ??? He ate it….

As Ice Cube would say “Today was a Good Day”

image

I look pretty happy there, don’t I?

I’ll be the first to admit, I wasn’t that smiling fellow earlier in the day.  When I opened my eyes yesterday morning, I was already irritated.  There wasn’t a real reason, I just knew that I was in a bad mood and wasn’t really feeling up to much of anything.  It can happen, even when you seem to be living the dream.  I think everyone just has those bad days.  I knew I was going to have one.

I had just renewed my fishing license and optimistically added a lobster permit.  Kim went for a run early in the day and I went back to bed. After about a 45 minute nap, I woke up feeling slightly better.  I decided to go for a run as well and stop for a Cuban coffee.  This all elevated my mood and I returned to our boat feeling much better….not quite 100% but not bad….maybe 75%.

I spent some time reading and taking it easy and at about 5:45 I heard a knock on our hull and one of our neighbors was looking for some dinner companions.  Kim was in the middle of a few things so I decided to go.

I snapped this photo as we were about to head down the dock….(that was sign #1)image

this day just wasn’t going to go down without a fight…..

I reached the end of the dock and spotted four or five lobsters poking their heads out of the sea wall….(sign #2). They tend to be more active during a full moon and it’s about half way there now.  One of these was a good sized male.  One of our friends at the Marina had a lobster “bully net”….image

you lower this net holding a string attached to the pointy end of the net which keeps the net vertical to the handle, and once the ring at the lower end is around your lobster, you release the string and then the lobster, as it attempts to scurry away runs into the pointy end of the net.

A short time later I was holding that lobster and it was the end to a “bad” day…..that was sign #3 and with that the day won….then I saw this….a Nurse shark right where I saw the lobster…..no need to spike the ball “day” I get it ……you win

image
Nurse Shark…Tavernier, FL

.

 

Two heads are better than one….or so we’ve been led to believe…

First and foremost…..Merry Christmas from the crew of Kitty Hawk……

The casting net Christmas Tree ….an ingenious design by our friend Joan….

image

Well….this month has been a busy one….we’ve had a total of seven visitors on board Kitty Hawk and have two more on the way.  We’ve done a lot of work to Kitty Hawk to get her ready for the next leg of our journey.  Like any aspect of life on board, using any system can and eventually will, expose any deficiencies or lack of maintenance.

During this month, we rebuilt both pump assemblies of our forward and aft heads.  For those not up to speed on nautical terminology, a head is a bathroom and also the name of the actual on board toilet.  So if you say “I’m going to the head” you just mean you’re going to the restroom.  If you say “the head is clogged” you mean that the toilet has failed to deliver whatever was deposited in it to the intended destination, decided to stop the flow of other materials in the future and by extension, ruined the Captain’s day.

Now, you may ask yourself, “Why call it a head?”….good question.  In the old days when ships could generally only sail downwind, the placement of the head was in the very forward most area of the ship.  Also, near the figurehead that many ships of that day sported for numerous superstitious, decorative or identification reasons. The natural wave action of the boat moving through the sea provided a “flushing out” as the seawater moved into and out of that space through openings in the hull just above the waterline.  Also, since the vessel was sailing downwind the smell was being carried away from the rest of the boat.

image

During our rebuild of our heads, (which are Raritan Compact II manual heads, which means they must be manually pumped to drain and introduce water as opposed to electric heads which just require the push of a button) we ran into an issue where the pump assembly, simply would not stop leaking. We disassembled and reassembled the unit about a half dozen times.  It had what we thought was just a difficult seal around one of the bolts that holds the pump to the base.  My brilliant wife said “could there be a crack in that we can’t see?”  Well, long story short even thought we couldn’t see or feel a crack…there was one…..once we we replaced the pump housing….voilá…no leak.

image

Once the pump was removed we could see the hairline crack on the backside….it looked like a mark from a wrench…..we made sure to inspect all of our spare units and discarded any with a similar mark….so we threw away three of them….which will cost about $110 a piece to replace….ow.

Since we had two sets of visitors it was only right that during each visit one of our heads clogged.  Our aft head was first during the first set of visitors and then our forward head lines clogged.  Maybe two heads really are better than one ? Haha….you don’t want to be without a head at all.  I had even made the comment that “if the aft one has clogged the forward one can’t be far behind” how regrettably right I was.   We were glad it happened where we were, rather than away from easy access to transportation and parts.  Plus, I had assistance from one of our guests when the forward head clogged.  The upside is we have rebuilt pumps and brand new lines for both heads now. These clogs are mostly caused by calcium build up from using salt water to flush the heads.  We are considering changing to composting heads in the future but for now they are just too expensive plus we should get four or five years of use after this rebuild.

On the upside…between clogged heads…..a neighbor and I landed an enormous Redfish….so two heads did work better than one in that instance……sadly, it  was over the size limit to keep but may have been a state record…..

image

 

 

 

Do you have a problem with birds? Or…. “Am I in a Hitchcock Movie?”

I recently came a cross a product that holds a lot of promise for boats plagued by birds (and their little gifts they leave behind).  Bird-X, a sticky, non drying caulk that can be applied with a standard caulking gun in thin strips to your windex, mast top plate or any other surface where you have the unwelcome visitors..It stays tacky and apparently birds hate that sensation on their feet…This product is available at Home Depot or www.bird-x.com it retails for around $36.  I suppose the ultimate test will be time, since as it gets coated with dust or other airborne material, will it lose its “tackiness” and become less effective or will the birds making contact with it ablate the surface exposing new sticky material?

I recently applied some to our Windex and I will continue to monitor it but so far, so good.

image

 

 

Bird-X also makes a sonic and a laser repeller but we don’t have either one of those to test…..yet

Happy Sailing…..

 

Marine version of “Too Cute”

While recently performing some interior teak refinishing (which not as bad as everyone says it is) a friend of mine was on deck doing a little fishing for our dinner when he saw a large dolphin chasing fish all the way into the shallows (About 18″ of water) near the mangroves and directly under the boat.  This is not a behavior we normally see in this area.  The fish are very plentiful and the dolphin normally hunt in groups of three or four.  Once the dolphin finished and was moving away, we saw the reason for the unusual behavior….

IMG_1774We guessed that the baby was being taught how to pursue fish, thus the more obvious behavior in shallower water……All together now “AWWWWW”